A Tale of Snow & Piss

I awoke early from my slumber knowing that today a formidable task lay ahead of me. One that had been lingering in the back of my mind intrepidly for some time. For today I would attempt to tackle the Bandai-Azuma Skyline, my greatest feat thus far. The road traverse’s for some 30km through the Azuma…

The Murder Stone

Nasu to Nasu-dake A thin layer of snow had settled over night giving me the perfect excuse in which to build some snowmen. I hated how cold it was in the mountains yet the sight of my snowmen over breakfast gave me some warmth and encouragement. The 8km climb up to Yumoto Park today from…

A Spring Winter’s Day

Approaching Nasu should have been a straight forward affair. I made sure it wasn’t though and spiced things up by taking a country road that would essentially lead on for an eternity and further on into oblivion. Things always get a little nervy when you haven’t seen a road sign for a town for at…

A Return to Nikko – II

I awoke the following rainy day having had an odd dream, to clean my bicycle chain I use a toothbrush, a very oily toothbrush I might add. In the ethereal realm and against the science of hygiene it appeared to be perfectly acceptable for me to use this toothbrush in order to clean my teeth. I…

A Return to Nikko

The ascent up to Nikko was a steady one, yet despite all the training over the past week or so I found it surprisingly draining. I think every now and then the body just needs to recharge, all the physical exertion obviously taking its toll, which is exactly what I planned to do upon arrival…

Gyōza Town

Utsunomiya, vibrant, sensual and quite simply just rammed full of gyōza! Embedded between a number of swanky café’s and bars dotted around town you’ll find a number of gyōza joints offering up various adaptation’s of the Chinese dumpling. Legend has it that a number of Japanese soldiers during WWII obtained Chinese dumpling recipes whilst occupying…

The Naritan Waiting Game – Part II

The rain came earlier than expected, and it really wanted me. I’d read it was due to kick off at around 8am, it was now 2am and I found myself getting wet. I’d not used my tent tonight as it wasn’t an option, I was encamped upon my sleeping map on the concrete base of…

The Naritan Waiting Game – Part I

Narita was a short 20 mile ride from Togane, predominantly along a vicious route 409. Narita of course famed for its International airport, an airport situated just some 40 miles away from downtown Tokyo of which sees roughly 20,000 flights every month, that averages out at around 3 million travellers each and every month. So…

Up the Boso

The park I had found to make my nest in for the night was ideal, but again the climes were not. By 4am I couldn’t bare the cold anymore and was up and about looking for a fast food outlet to bide some more time until sunrise. Again like in Chichibu I found a 24…

A Corporate Refuge

When the previous evenings rain had simmered I’d found myself a small park to hold fort in for the night. With rain in tow it was a mild enough night, yet I still slept uneasily. As I was packing my gear away at dawn I was greeted by an old man and his poodle. I…